Alongside teaching French at Cambridge University and writing a column for the Independent newspaper in the UK, Andy Martin has travelled the world as a keen surfer. He got to know Ted Deerhurst when reporting on the international circuit as surfing correspondent for the Times of London. He is the author of numerous books including: With Child: Lee Child and the Readers of Jack Reacher, The Boxer and the Goalkeeper: Sartre vs Camus, Stealing the Wave and Walking on Water.
I don't normally read books about surfers, but this is like Truman Capote, with shorts. -Lee Child Andy Martin, to his immense credit, knows that surfers are misfits and accidental comics, as well as great athletes. -Matt Warshaw A sublime mixing of stoke and sorrow, hedonism and the macabre-skillfully and deftly penned by someone who had, and still has, intimate access to many of the key players. -Tom Anderson, author of Riding the Magic Carpet: A Surfer's Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave